Welcome to Eureka Street

back to site

ARTS AND CULTURE

Life after gold

  • 20 October 2009

The fish that drank the ocean The expanding bag is webbed around hope.

It is made of string and governments fall through its fingers like stones.

The bag is a boat and a car and then a gull and then a spiral; Earth.

The afterimage of settlements are forgotten when the fire is stamped into black stick dirt and the black stick dirt is carried by hand to the bag of our hopes and left there to fall again through the holes in the mesh.

Holy day, feast day, birthday, battle.

It's always happening again,

Soon we will form a line and slip

through a gap in the rocks.

There is water there and vivid, plangent light

–Jesse Shipway

Cusco Old women sleep on footpaths next to cauldrons of boiling corn, the cobs with kernels as big and pale as teeth. They walk the hard roads with bundles of cans or sticks on their backs like humps for lorries, oblivious to the ubiquitous mountains. Children in hand and lambs on frayed ropes, they offer themselves for photographs with their poppy-mouthed skirts and disease-reddened cheeks.

The street walls and foundation stones, born of an age of earthquakes and labyrinths, do not want for mortar or miracles; they have the science of the circling stars and the conquistadors' gods on side. In the church, Black Jesus, bathed in petals and candle smoke, grows smoother and darker each year, and the Blessed Virgin stands mountainous in a triangular dress, her spiked halo the Andean sun.

'Capitalism is misery and suffering,' laments the white paint on the wall of an adobe house, outside which a family with oxen and plough work the blood-soaked earth of the mountains that spewed up so much resilient and spectacular rock. They are watched by dogs, black and bald as pigs. Returning from the markets, busloads of tourists, clad like cheer squads for Peru, take blurred photographs of the passing view.

The air congeals in our lungs. In a restaurant, a woman passes out after vomiting her steak in a side-dish. Her blonde Canadian friend offers it to the quiet waitress, asking for ketchup for her fries. Guinea pig is served here as at the last supper re-painted for the local church half-a-millennium ago, when Judas wore a brown face with a melancholy and knowing gaze. Back at our quake-proof hotel, we are swallowed by our tomb-like room.

–Maria Takolander

Daytrip to Walhalla uneasy in its valley of ghosts this gold town lives on beyond bust graves cut steep and deep through stone some folk buried here standing up

this gold town lives on beyond bust its bandstand caged by scaffold some folk buried here standing up parrots blood-bright