How much do you pay for tomatoes? Bananas? What about for your garlic?
If you are one of the 90 per cent of Australian shoppers who buy garlic imported from China you're spending around $2/kg. Buying organic, locally-produced garlic on the other hand, can set you back $38/kg. But don't be fooled about which is really cheaper.
Throughout his 2007 election campaign Kevin Rudd pledged to address what he termed 'inflated grocery prices,' contending that 'the increasing cost of living is felt most sharply by families at the local supermarket'.
In reality, Australians are spending less at the supermarket than ever before: our expenditure on food is 14 per cent of household income, down from 22 per cent in the 1960s. The declining price of agricultural products is the main reason why agriculture's share of the economy has dropped from 14 per cent in the 1960s to 4 per cent.
But this cheap food has come at a cost, one ignored by Rudd, but tallied on the livelihoods of Australian farmers and on the degradation of the Australian environment.
In his recent book, The House on the Hill: The Transformation of Australia's Farming Communities, social researcher Neil Barr describes the bleak future facing independent farms and the country town connected to them. The core of his pessimism is declining commodity prices.
Barr grew up on a small, struggling stone-fruit orchard outside Melbourne. He uses his parents' experience as an illustration: when they bought a farm in 1953, ten acres of productive orchard was sufficient to earn a reasonable family living. The falling price of fruit and the rising cost of growing it meant that before too long the amount of land required to make an income rose to 15 acres. It kept rising. Barr's parents gave up when it reached 30.
'Get big or get out' has become a truism of modern farming: if farmers survive it is by buying out their failing neighbours. Only one in two farming families will pass the business on to a successor within the family.
Falling food prices and farm aggregation are both cause and effect in a complex network of changes that have transformed Australian agriculture. These range from the triumph of global trade over national schemes of price fixing and controlled production, to the impact that women entering the paid workforce has had on the way Australians eat.
Time spent preparing the evening meal, for example, has dropped from two hours in the 1950s to one hour in the 1980s, to between 20 and 30 minutes today. With time-poor shoppers increasingly turning away from raw produce to processed food like frozen chips and tinned tomato sauce, farmers are getting an ever smaller proportion of the money we spend on food.
The rise of the supermarket giants, Coles and Woolworths, has further weakened farmers' financial position. Farmers are increasingly locked into direct supply arrangements with supermarkets who effectively set prices and transfer risks, such as quality control, to the growers.
But if farmers are suffering from our appetite for cheap food, so too is the land.
Around 70 per cent of the 500 million hectares of land used for agriculture in this country is degraded. The remarkable gains in agricultural productivity, which have helped make food so cheap, have been dependent on clearing, poisoning native grasses, draining swamps, and intensively fertilising.
The former chief of CSIRO Land and Water, John Williams, has put it bluntly in official reports on the environmental impact of Australian agriculture: 'business as usual is not an option'.
Patrice Newell is a biodynamic farmer of garlic, olives and beef cattle. She is adamant that cheap food is a furphy, as prices fail to factor in environmental expenses. Australia's industrial agribusinesses do not pay for their real water use or soil degradation: the big profits are a mirage.
For an industry that exports 70 per cent of its product (for some crops, such as wheat, the figure is more like 80 per cent), any changes to the way food is costed will have significant economic impacts. But Newell insists this dependence on exports is what we should be giving up, rather than small, independent, environmentally sustainable farms. 'What's the point of destroying the Murray-Darling Basin to export food? I mean, why?'
The real cost of food is not what politicians want to talk about, but we must. So how much do you pay for your garlic?
Sarah Kanowski is a writer, and a producer and broadcaster with ABC Radio National. Her essay on food and farming in Australia can be found in the online edition of Griffith Review Edition 27: Food Chain.